Here in Memphis, Mother Nature blesses us with a wide variety of native plants and flowers. It’s best to plant native flowers in your gardens over non-native plants since they acclimate easily to our climate. They also adapt to our soil and repel pests. Our local birds and pollinators prefer them. SedumsSedums are perennials famous for their foliage and star-shaped flowers. They come in a wide range of shapes and sizes and can change color throughout the season. Tall sedums grow to be about one to three feet tall. They bear succulent leaves and showy flowers. Short sedums are ground-huggers and make great ground covers for your landscape or rock gardens. Sedums grow best if you plant them in the spring right after winter’s thaw. After you plant them they don’t need as much attention as other flowers in your garden. Just check in on them once in a while to make sure they aren’t too dry. DayliliesDaylilies can tolerate a wide variety of soil conditions making them a great addition to your Memphis landscape. These hardy perennials are not bothered by disease or pests and continue to bloom on schedule for years. Daylilies are unique among perennials: a versatile flower that can serve as a border, stand with a group, or pair with other ornamental grasses and shrubs. Each stem of a daylily grows about a dozen flower buds that will bloom for several weeks. Butterfly PeaButterfly pea is a rare and stunning flower found here in Tennessee. It’s a member of the pea family. Unlike its name, the butterfly pea does not attract butterflies. The name comes from the shape of its beautiful lavender flowers that resemble a wing. Since butterfly peas are perennial vines that don’t grow very tall (about 3 feet high) and don’t climb they make a great, tameable garden vine. Goatsbeard
This perennial plant belonging to the rose family. It prefers to grow in the damp woods, plains, or near rivers. It grows in a bushy shape and reaches heights up to six feet tall. It’s delicate cream-colored flowers grow on long stalks and can last through the spring and summer (late May/early July) The male of the species bears flashier flowers then the females. This native flower is a favorite among gardeners due to its versatility. It can be used as a border plant for edging your sidewalks and driveways or as a privacy screen to block the road or nosey neighbors. Most gardeners dig up goatsbeard in the wild and transplant them in their gardens. Foxglove BeardtongueThe foxglove beardtongue is one of the easier native plants to grow in your garden. Its clusters of bright, white flowers bloom in May and June attract bees, hummingbirds, and songbirds. The Beardtongue is coveted for its long blooming stages, and it’s resistance to deer, rabbits, drought, and disease. If you live in a wooded area with lots of wildlife this is an excellent choice for your yard. While you are planting your native flower gardens, letLawnStarter take care of the rest of your yard. We can take a lot of hard work off your shoulders so you can spend your free time enjoying that garden. The post Native Flowers to Plant in Memphis appeared first on Lawnstarter. from https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/tennessee/memphis-tennessee/native-flowers-to-plant-in-memphis/
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Summer means kicking back with friends and enjoying those crisp, cool nights. There’s no better way to enjoy the California weather than by attending an outdoor concert. If you enjoy local bands you’ll have a blast this summer. Here’s a list of best places to see outdoor concerts in Fresno, CA. Gazebo GardensThis quaint little venue opened up in 1922 and is still going strong. It’s a cafe, beer garden, outdoor concert venue, and nursery all in one. Gazebo Gardens has musical performances every Thursday, Friday, and Saturday along with a variety of food and drinks. Come join the good times, good food, and good vibes. Rotary AmphitheaterRotary Amphitheater in Woodrow Park is a beautiful 300-acre venue nestled among the trees and lakes. You can sit inside the pavilion or on the lawn for that perfect concert experience. The intimate design allows for great views from any seat. A new awning adds shade and reduces the temperature during the day. Check out the website for upcoming performances. Arte AmericasBeginning in 1987 in a small storefront, Arte Americas has been educating the community on its Latin American heritage. You’ll find plenty of events and exhibits showcasing the culture. These exhibits are family-friendly and feature local and international artists. Directly next to the museum is La Plazita where their summer concert series takes place every Friday night. You can enjoy a diverse collection of musical performances under the stars. Boots in the ParkIf you’re a country music fan, then you’ll love Boots in the Park at Woodward Park Amphitheater. This is a live outdoor country music event for the whole family. The music starts on March 15th at 5 pm. Tickets start at $49. This year’s starting lineup includes such country stars as Ross Ellis, Tyler Rich, and CMT Music Award nominee Justin Lynch. Patio-CafeIf you’re looking for that chill, intimate vibe with a quiet atmosphere, then check out Patio-Cafe on Palm Avenue. They serve lunch and breakfast all day with a wide range of organic options available. Stop by between Thursday and Saturday and catch some live music from some talented local bands. Chukchansi Gold Resort and CasinoNestled in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada and just a short drive from Yosemite National Park, the Chukchansi Gold Resort and Casino has everything you need for an entertaining weekend getaway. The resort boasts an outside pavilion and an indoor lounge where musical acts regularly perform. With music, food, and games, there is a little something for everyone at Chukchansi Gold Resort and Casino. There’s no shortage of venues in California, but for these six are the best places to see outdoor concerts in Fresno. For the best lawn care in Fresno check out LawnStarter. We’ll help you get your lawn looking as nice as these concert grounds. The post Best Places to See Outdoor Concerts in Fresno, CA appeared first on Lawnstarter. from https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/california/best-places-to-see-outdoor-concerts-in-fresno/ The verdict is in from gardeners, environmentalists, and scientists: Don’t bag your grass clippings. Let them mulch your yard. Your lawn and the environment will both be happier for it. In the not-too-distant past, the standard advice was the opposite. We thought bagging was better and believed grass clippings contributed to thatch buildup. We also preferred the look of a lawn without the ragged bits of mown grass. Some research and a bit of technology overcame both of those objections. Turfgrass researchers found that properly trimmed lawn clippings do not cause thatch. So new mowing blades were invented to chop the grass blades into finer pieces that are harder to see and decompose more quickly. So today the norm is “grasscycling” — returning the cut blades of grass right back to the soil. “Overall, it is better to mulch because the nutrients remain in the soil,” said Teris Pantazes, CEO of the Baltimore-based handyman community site, EFynch.com. “Avoiding the bagging of cuttings will help the environment – avoiding the need for this waste material to enter landfills,” said Thomas O’Rourke, of the garden advice site DeckingHero.com. Changing standard favors mulching“I would say that the standard has changed over time as people have begun to recognize the nutritional benefit of mulch on their lawns,” O’Rourke said. “Bagging is definitely neater because there will be no clumps of grass left over,” said Luke Truetken, owner of Luke’s Landscape & Maintenance of McKinney, Texas. “However, it’s not necessarily the best thing. Mulching allows the clippings to revitalize the lawn with nutrients as they decay. If done correctly, it also doesn’t reduce the neat appearance, either.“ 5 benefits of lawn mulchingThere are at least five benefits to mulching your grass clippings. 1. Grass clippings are a natural fertilizer.By mulching, you reduce your lawn’s fertilizer needs. “Mulching re-introduces essential minerals to your lawn that would otherwise be lost,” O’Rourke said. “For example, nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are all preserved by utilizing the mulch, reducing the need for artificial fertilizers to keep your lawn looking healthy. “ Leaving the mulch in your lawn returns several pounds of nutrients to your lawn each season.
That’s “a considerable amount when typical recommendations suggest 2 to 5 pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of lawn annually,” notes Oregon State University’s Extension Service. Lawn clipping mulch allows you to skip the time and expense of a nitrogen fertilizer cycle while still maintaining a healthy lawn. 2. Clippings hydrate.Mulching lawn clippings “helps lawns stay hydrated in high-heat and drought conditions,” said Cassy Aoyagi, president and co-owner of FormLA Landscaping of Los Angeles. 3. Mulching reduces landfill use.Mulching your yard clippings reduces dump fees and keeps yard waste out of already-strained landfills. “Bagging is not so environmentally friendly unless you have a compost pile, which most people do not have,” Truetken said. “Some cities collect yard waste for composting, but usually it just ends up in the landfill.” “You’re reducing landfill waste by not bagging, and cutting back on plastic, since the bag will inevitably be plastic,” Michael said. The mulching of yard trimmings has been a success story for landfills. A 2018 report from the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, shows Americans generate about 34.7 million tons of yard trimmings per year. That’s 69.4 trillion pounds. But just 10.8 million tons end up in landfills, down from 27 million in 1980. In part, that’s because the norm has changed, and people either mulch or compost their trimmings from grass plants. Also, state governments have taken action to keep yard trimmings out of their landfills. According to data from The Composting Council, 25 states have regulations limiting or banning yard clippings in landfills. The states are: Arkansas, Connecticut, Delaware, Florida, Georgia, Illinois, Iowa, Maryland, Massachusetts, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, Nebraska, North Carolina, Ohio, Pennsylvania, South Carolina, South Dakota, Vermont, New York and Wisconsin. 4. Mulching is less work.“Bagging is additional work as you need to stop frequently and empty the bag,” Truetken said. 5. Mulch is a natural weed killerWeed control is important. The mulch layer will be less than an inch thick, but regular mowing and mulching provide a barrier to weed seeds, preventing them from taking root. When you should bag your lawn trimmingsThe experts allow for some exceptions to the general “don’t bag your clippings” rule. For one, says O’Rourke, “If you haven’t cut your lawn in a while, don’t be afraid to bag some of your clippings. Leaving too much excess grass on your lawn can block sunlight leading to patchiness and discoloration.” Also, a new lawn grown from seed may be too delicate to withstand a coating of trimmings. The University of Minnesota Extension service suggests mulching is not appropriate if you’re giving your lawn a big trim. In no case should you ever remove more than one-third of the length of your grass in any single mow. But if you’re following the “one-third rule” and the cut grass is still long, remove it.
“As a general rule, grass clippings of an inch or less in length can be left on your lawn where they will filter down to the soil surface and decompose quickly,” according to the Minnesota Extension Service. “Remove longer clippings because they can shade or smother grass beneath, causing lawn damage.”
“Shorter grass bits will break into the soil more easily, unlike longer ones,” said Pol Bishop of Fantastic Gardeners, a London-based lawn service company. “So next time you mow your lawn you will know if you should keep the grass clippings on or not.”
There is another exception. Go ahead and bag the clippings if your lawn has a thick layer of thatch — a half-inch or more. According to the Missouri Extension Service, “A layer more than 1/2 inch thick will prevent clippings from coming into contact with soil microorganisms,” preventing the clippings from breaking down. How to compost lawn clippings
If you do decide to remove the trimmings, you can use grass clippings as part of your compost pile. They will then convert into fertile soil for your garden beds, raised beds and vegetable garden plots.
Composting has become a common practice for lawn clippings. According to the EPA, “Composting was negligible in 1980, and it rose to 23.4 million tons in 2015.”
“Grass falls into the ‘green’ portion of what is necessary for successful composting, said Michael, whose site includes a compost bin guide. “Along with water and some ‘browns,’ such as paper, cardboard, sawdust, or leave clippings, you have the makings for successful composted soil.” Dry leaves, wood, and straw are other “browns” that will balance out your grass clippings. Since fresh grass clippings are about 80 percent water, you may not need to water the compost pile when blending in the clippings. Dry grass may require sprinkling some water on the compost pile. Missouri’s extension service recommends a 1:1 to 2:1 ratio of brown to green. Be sure the clippings are pesticide free before adding the organic matter to the compost pile. Mulching equipment: Mowers and bladesIf you or your lawn care pro mow frequently with a sharp blade, a regular lawn mower with a standard “2 in 1” blade is sufficient for most mulching needs. The mulch may clump a bit and create larger pieces, but for ordinary lawns, that’s fine. But if you are looking for finer, clump-free mulch, consider a mulching blade kit or a mulching motor. Mulching blades are sometimes called “3-in-1” blades since they have an extra duty. They not only discharge to the ground or to the side, but they also mulch. They are designed with multiple cutting edges and a shape that keep grass suspended under the deck of the lawn mower. So the clippings get hit several times by the blade. The result is mulch in such tiny pieces that it is nearly invisible. Mulching blade kits are available for as little as $20, but shop carefully, as they are often brand-specific and not universal. As always, if you are planning to put your hands under a mower, disconnect the spark plug or electric cord to prevent accidental starting. Dedicated mulching mowers tend to have larger engines better able to handle the multiple cuts, and “decks” (the metal awning over the blade) designed to facilitate the process A few newer mowers even allow you to control the level of mulching, so that some of the grass returns to the lawn, and some is bagged. No matter which blade you have, keep it sharp. Experts advise sharpening the mower blade at least yearly, and more often if your lawn is big or you mow frequently. The rule of thumb is to sharpen the blade once for every 25 hours of use. “Keeping the blade sharp will also improve mulching, as well as helping the grass stay healthier,” Truetken said. The post Mulch Your Grass Clippings for a Healthy Lawn appeared first on Lawnstarter. from https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/lawn-care-2/mulch-grass-clippings-healthy-lawn/ The post Protected: Weddings Are Fun? appeared first on Lawnstarter. from https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/statistics/weddings-are-fun/ Growing a new lawn from grass seed is one of the easiest — and most-satisfying — home improvement tasks a homeowner can tackle. With just a little time and know-how, you can bring to life a beautiful expanse of green grass. Here’s how to grow a lawn from grass seed, in six simple steps. Step 1: Get rid of the old sodOut with the old. Your new lawn does not want to compete with old sod and weeds. If you have a small area where you plan to seed grass, hand tools are sufficient to do the job. Get in there with shovels and rakes and dig out the old sod and weeds. If you plan to remove all vegetation, it may be simpler to use a nonselective broad-spectrum herbicide that will kill any plants it contacts. Follow label instructions carefully and be sure it doesn’t overspray or run off the area where you want it applied. Whichever method you use, though, don’t overdo it. You want to loosen the soil and get rid of the old vegetation but leave that precious good topsoil behind. Once you have removed the weeds and old sod, loosen the soil. You don’t need to turn the topsoil over. Just break it up so the new grass seeds’ roots can easily grow through. If you just have a small area to seed, a digging fork will do the trick. For larger areas, consider a core aerator. You can rent one and do the job yourself, or hire a lawn care company to do it for you. While you have the soil bare is a perfect time to attend to any grading issues your future lawn will have by filling in low spots. Use a half-and-half mixture of sand and topsoil to fill any low spots. An even lawn without bumps will prevent accidental scalping of your future lawn. However, not all hills need to be evened out. In rainy parts of the Pacific Northwest, for example, a slight slope is desirable to allow excess rain to flow off. Get the timing right: When to seedFor cool-season grass seeds, either spring or fall are the preferred times, since these northern varieties of grass prefer warm soil and cool air. In the South, warm-season grasses can be planted from late spring to mid-summer. Wait until the last chance of a late frost has passed, and the daytime temperature is in the 80s. Step 2: Test and amend your soilYou have exposed and evened out the planting surface, but it’s not yet time to lay down the seed. For the seeding project to have the best chance of success, you need to know what kind of soil you have. So test. Good: At a minimum, test for pH. That’s a measure of the acidity or alkalinity of your soil. Most grasses like slightly acidic soil, with a pH of 6.2 to 7. A simple moisture and pH tester can be found for $10 or less. Better: Also test for the major nutrients in your soil. For around $20, you can get a kit that in addition to testing for pH, will test for the major plant-building nutrients, nitrogen, phosphorus and potash — the N, P, and K numbers you see on all bags of fertilizers. Best: Test for both major and minor nutrients. There can be more than a dozen you can test for, and which ones you test for will vary depending on the testing facility and on which micronutrients tend to be lacking in your area. For that, you’ll need either a fancier kit or take your soil samples to a testing lab. There are private laboratories, and also many state extension service offices. The latter often offer low-cost or even free soil testing. Test the soil as soon as you can. There can be a wait of up to two weeks to get test results back. If you dawdle, you could miss your ideal planting window. The test results should give you a plan, and maybe a shopping list for your local garden shop. Following application directions carefully, add your soil amendments to restore what it lacks. Till your soil to a depth of about five inches, working the soil amendments in evenly. Step 3: Select your grass seedOne of the biggest keys to success is picking a high-quality seed that is right for your climate. Best grass seeds for Northern statesIf you live in a Northern state, select a cool-season grass. Cool-season grasses thrive in the late spring and early fall months in the northern two-thirds of the United States. Northern grass seed products grow best when temperatures are 60-75 degrees Fahrenheit. The most popular cool-season lawn grasses are:
Best grass seeds for Southern statesPeople living in Southern states should select a warm-season grass seed. But the variety of seed will depend on what part of the country you are in. In the warm, humid Southeast and Gulf Coast states, the favorite seed varieties are:
Another common turfgrass choice in the Deep South, St. Augustine grass, is not commercially sold as seed, since its seedheads are sterile. It is planted from sod. Transition state grass seedsIn between the North and South is the transition zone, where there are both hot summers and freezing winters. Finding a variety of grass seed that works will be a tradeoff: You either find the most cold-tolerant warm-season grass available, or the most heat-tolerant cool-season grass. Single variety, blend or grass seed mix?In addition to getting a high-quality grass seed that matches your climate, you also need to consider your lawn’s unique properties. Look over the area where you intend to seed.
Knowing your terrain will help you home in on the formulation of lawn seed you want. Seeds are sold as pure seed of one variety, blends (multiple types of the same variety) and mixtures (seed blends of different varieties). Each type of grass seed has its uses. The pure seed will give you a unified look. The blends will be a bit less uniform, but one variety may cover up for the weaknesses of another. Grass seed mixtures provide the most biologically diverse lawn: The grass plants won’t look identical, but the diversity gives you the greatest chance of having your lawn survive diseases and droughts. Pennington, for example, has a Smart Seed brand that includes a mix of shade grass seed and full-sun seed. Federal Seed Act guarantees accurate labelingWhen it comes to selecting seeds, you have an ally — the Federal Seed Act. First enacted in 1939 and amended five times since, the Seed Act requires seed sellers to provide consumers with valuable information on the seed’s labels. Under the law, the label must tell you:
Grass seed alone? Or a fertilizer and mulch mix?You have one final decision to make — whether to buy a seed product that incorporates fertilizer and mulch, or whether you will purchase fertilizer and mulch separately. The all-in-one products tend to be more expensive, but are more convenient. Measure your lawn area in square feet, and purchase enough seed to cover that area. Generally, the bags are marked as the number of pounds needed per 1,000 square feet. Fudge your purchase on the high side so you’ll buy a little more than needed. That way you should have some left over in case you need to come back and reseed some bare spots. If you are fertilizing separately, broadcast the fertilizer per the manufacturer’s instructions, but do not till it in. Step 4: Plant and fertilize your grass seedWith your soil ready, it’s time to lay down the seeds. For planting grass seed in small areas, hand-seeding is fine. For larger areas, you’ll want to use a seeder. They can be hand cranked, chest mounted or push-from-behind models. Another option is a drop seeder, which drops seeds directly below. They are a good choice for small areas and are more precise than the rotary models. There are more expensive commercial seeding options as well. Follow the instructions on the seed bag, but you generally want 15-20 seeds per square inch. Make a couple of test runs, aiming for half of that number since you are going to make two passes with your seeder. If the seeder’s lowest setting is too generous with the seed, thin it out with sand or vermiculite. Once you get the distribution setting right, make two passes across your lawn area. If you go north-south on the first pass, go east-west on the second. Broadcasting the seed from two angles gives seed the best chance to spread evenly. “We call it ‘the seed-soil contact,’” said University of Illinois Extension office educator Richard Hentschel. “You want good seed-soil contact. If the seed and soil are not in intimate contact, the little root radicle may die out before it hits the soil.” The radicle is the first root to emerge from a seed. Rake the seeded surface lightly to mix the grass seed and fertilizer in the top 1/8-inch of soil. If you have access to one, roll using an empty roller to improve the germination rate. If you have a hilly area, seeds will tend to wash away to a low point. One potential solution is hydroseeding: broadcasting seeds that are suspended in a fertilizer-mulch slurry. Professional landscapers often offer hydroseeding services, and there are some hose-end sprayers for the do-it-yourselfers. Lawn-starting fertilizer: Watch the phosphorus A word about using lawn-starting fertilizer: Be mindful how you do it, particularly with one element — phosphorus. In the three big letters on a bag of lawn fertilizer, phosphorus is the middle number. Traditionally, fertilizers made for new lawns contained a good strong dose of it because phosphorus encourages root growth. Not anymore. The use of phosphorus has become controversial and for good reason. While the element is essential for the root system to grow, its overuse has led to over-blooming algae and dead zones in bays, rivers, and lakes. Alarmed by the evidence that excess phosphorus runoff was causing damage, lawn fertilizer makers began formulating phosphorus-free alternative products. One of the giants in the industry, The Scotts Miracle-Gro Co., removed phosphorus from its popular Scotts Turf Builder fertilizer in 2013 out of concern for the environment. Arguing that sufficient phosphorus is available in soils already, 15 states have restricted the use of fertilizers containing the nutrient. They are:
Washington, D.C., also restricts phosphorus use. Most of the laws carve out an exception and allow limited application of phosphorus on new lawns, but turf experts say let your soil test be your guide. If it says that your soil lacks phosphorus, then it’s acceptable. Do take care when applying phosphorus or any fertilizer. Apply only the nutrients your soil test says you need and follow directions carefully. Clean up any spilled fertilizer and don’t water so much you create runoff. Step 5: Water and watch: Your post-planting choresAll your hard work so far will go for naught unless you keep an eye on the fledgling grass seeds and attend to their needs as they emerge. Seeds only get one shot at germination, so what you do now is critical. That means water. You want to keep that top layer of soil ¼ to ½ inch deep moist. If a grass seed dries out, it dies out. Some have likened this part of lawn-building to caring for an infant because both young babies and young lawns need constant attention. Likely you’ll be dealing with several variables. Part of the lawn may be shadier, part may have more porous soil, or part may be sloped. So observe and adjust your watering accordingly. Keep the soil moist, but too much water is as bad as too little. Overly vigorous watering could wash the seeds away. So keep the soil moist but not soggy. A misting attachment on your hose can cut down on the amount of force you use. Expect to water at least once a day in the morning, and perhaps again in the afternoon if sun and wind have dried out the soil. Keep in mind that different grass plants germinate at different times. So if you have a mixture of grass seeds, you’ll need to keep watering it until the slowest-germinating species emerges. Grass seed germination rates, by grass type
Even if you planted just one turfgrass variety, the grass seeds won’t all pop up at once. Some will be buried a bit deeper or have a different rate of water absorption. Stay with your watering regimen until you are sure you have given all the seeds the best shot you can at taking root. Keep foot traffic to a minimum during this time. You can also consider putting up “Please keep off the new grass” signs to discourage accidental trampling by your kids and neighbors (and their dogs). Step 6: When to give new grass its first mowHooray! It’s green and it’s growing well. Here’s how tall your grass should be before you mow for the first time:
Mowing a new lawn: Be gentleBe careful with the lawnmower the first few times your new turfgrass is mowed. The roots will not be long or well-established, so it will be easy to accidentally rip up the young plants. Sharpen the mower’s blade, so you cut, not tear the tender plants. Try to start the mower on a flat surface away from the lawn, and minimize the number of turns you make with the mower. Abide by the rule of ⅓, which is to never remove more than a third of a grass plant in one mow. Once you have mowed at least once, cut back on your frequent shallow watering, and switch to watering a couple of times a week, deeply. Get water down to six or eight inches deep to encourage your new lawn to root deeply. Once established the lawn will start spreading to cover any gaps. After about six to eight weeks, your lawn should be well-established. Hit it with a little more fertilizer to encourage deep roots, and take down your “keep off the new lawn” signs. Your new lawn is ready for you. The post Growing your lawn from grass seed: 6 steps appeared first on Lawnstarter. from https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/grass-seed/14307/ “There are only two kinds of people in the world, the Irish and those who wish they were.” That Irish proverb is hundreds of years old, but it still rings true today, especially in America on St. Patrick’s Day. Seems everyone is Irish on March 17th, or at least claims to be. In reality, only a handful of places in the U.S. can claim to be true Irish cities. May your home always be too small to hold all your friendsEver wonder how many Americans truly have the luck of the Irish and how many are just full of blarney? According to theU.S. Census Bureau, 32.3 million Americans (about 10% of the population) claim Irish ancestry. What makes that number so incredible is the fact that the current population of Ireland and Northern Ireland combined is only 6.4 million. In other words, there are five times as many Irish descendants in the U.S. than in Ireland. Maybe they need to change the proverb to “May your country be too small to hold all your descendants.” Highest Irish PopulationIt’s not surprising that Irish is the second most common ancestry (Behind German.) Nearly 4.5 million Irish immigrants arrived in the U.S.between 1820 and 1860. The mass immigration really picked up after a blight hit the Emerald Isle’s potato crop in 1845, starving the majority of the population. They came here searching for food and land, and fellow Irishmen. They found a lot of company in Boston. Census numbers from 1855 show the earliest Irish settlers chose homes near the docks, where fishing and jobs were plentiful. Nearly four-thousand Irish-born immigrants (23 percent of the city’s population) lived in East Boston at the time. Bean Town remains the city with the most concentrated Irish population. Here are the other top nine cities where Irish eyes are smiling: (according to the 2016 numbers from the U.S. Census Survey.)
Those are just the numbers from the major metropolitan cities. Keep in mind, many of the Irish who immigrated here, choose the suburbs just outside the larger metro area of their choice. Medium CitiesWeymouth, Massachusetts – 45.5% Quincy, Massachusetts 33.5% Smaller CitiesScituate, Massachusetts – 61.5% Holly Bluff, Mississippi – 58.33% Irish-Americans make up least 5% of the population in most counties across the U.S., and 10% or more in New England, New York state, New Jersey, and Pennsylvania. The Metro city with the smallest Irish population? Miami, with just 1%. You may think tallying up the Irish population in America is like looking for a four-leaf clover in a patch of shamrocks. Why should we care? Two reasons: property and parades. PropertyRemember, many of the Irish came to the U.S. searching for land. The Census Bureau’s 2016 community survey shows that nearly 69% of Irish-Americans are homeowners. Irish Americans said home ownership is very important to them. 68.9% of thosesurveyed owned the home in which they lived, the highest for any ethnic group. That information is especially important to realtors, developers, city planners and businesses looking to expand. A shipping, or lawn care company would do well looking to expand in Boston where thepopulation has grown by nearly 6% in the past ten years. Many Irish-Americans say they’re looking to duplicate the green space they enjoyed in the old country. Lawn care companies and landscapers can benefit here. Developers can benefit by naming new subdivisions after Irish cities, like Dublin or Shannon. ParadesParades are also big revenue draws for Boston and New York City. While New York City hosts the largest (more than 2 million spectators) St. Patrick’s Day Parade, Boston boasts the longest and the oldest. The tradition began there in 1737 and now attractsone million spectators every year. (Many of them tourists.) Let’s not forget about Chicago. While the Windy City isn’t in the top ten for its Irish population, it does have the second largest St. Paddy’s day parade in the country. And everybody there must be dancing the jig when they dye the river kelly green for the day. We began with an Irish proverb and with the last name of Stuart-Ryan, I can’t help ending with a couple more: Broken Irish is better than clever English If you are enough lucky to be Irish, you are lucky enough! We’ll forgive you this St. Paddy’s Day for wearing the green if you’re not Irish. After all, St. Patrick wasn’t Irish either. He was an Englishman who migrated to Ireland to convert the country to Christianity. Brenda Stuart Ryan is a journalist and the proud mother of two girls who spent years competing in Irish step-dancing competition. She spent years driving them back and forth to lessons and competitions. The post The 10 Most Irish Cities in America appeared first on Lawnstarter. from https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/city-rankings/10-most-irish-cities-in-america/ Fight ozone pollution and get a bargain on a new electric lawn mower or trimmer? Sign us up, say residents around Salt Lake City, who are again flooding a Utah gas lawn mower trade-in program with applications. In just the first three days since the program kicked off March 5, 2019, about 1,200 residents of Davis, Salt Lake, Tooele, Utah and Weber counties already have entered their names in a drawing to get one of the bargain mowers and trimmers. The program, run by the Utah Department of Environmental Quality started in 2015 and “It’s been very successful,” said DEQ Public Information Officer Jared Mendenhall. No wonder. It’s a very good bargain: Residents of the five counties turn in an old but working gas mower or trimmer and in exchange, get a new cordless electric version at a steep discount. The mower, which retails for $299, is just $99. The trimmer, which retails for $149, costs $49. This year’s Lawn Mower Exchange Program has 1,259 electric lawn mowers and 972 electric lawn trimmers available. Residents of the five counties have until March 15 to enter their names. A random drawing will be held to select the winners, and the actual exchange will occur April 27. Visit lawnmower.utah.gov for more details and to enter. Funding for the Utah program came from Utah’s portion of a $120 million settlement that General Motors paid to end state lawsuits over faulty engine switches. Utah’s exchange program was inspired by a similar one done yearly in San Diego County, The San Diego County version, called “Mowing down pollution,” has been around since 2000, and is an annual event held in May. Other gas mower exchange or rebate programs include one run by the five-county district around Orange County, which has a year-round discount program. Maricopa County, Ariz., also has a year-round electric mower rebate program for residents of Phoenix and surrounding cities. In every case, the exchange programs are operated by the government agency responsible for fighting air pollution, and pushing gas-powered mowers into retirement is part of their strategy. By reducing carbon and breathing out oxygen, llawns have environmental benefits and reduce air pollution. But those benefits are partially offset by the pollution created by mowing lawns with gas-powered mowers. One study found that the pollution emitted by one hour of operating a gas mower equaled that emitted by a car driving 93 miles. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency “didn’t regulate small engines like those in gas mowers until the late ’90s,” said Mendenhall. “And mowers and trimmers are things people hold on to for decades so we’re trying to get rid of them.”
The post Gas-powered lawn mower exchange programs cut air pollution appeared first on Lawnstarter. from https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/environment/gas-powered-lawn-mower-exchange-program-cuts-air-pollution/ Minneapolis has had a particularly harsh winter this year, and if you’re not fond of that chill, you can’t wait for spring’s warm embrace. A lot of Minneapolis gardeners want to get back outside and tend to our gardens and flowers. Once the snow and ice thaw it’s time to get to work and get your yard and garden ready for spring in Minneapolis. DethatchBefore you do anything, you should dethatch your yard. Over the winter layers of grass clippings and other organic matter build up under the grass and can prevent fertilizers and water from penetrating the soil. This can lead to a host of problems for your yard. Thankfully dethatching is pretty easy. All you need is a metal rake to loosen the thatch. Prevent WeedsSnow’s the time to attack those weeds — before they sprout! A lot of weeds overwinter in your grass, lying in wait for the warmth of spring to bring them to life. It’s best to use a pre-emptive strike and prevent the weeds from sprouting by applying pre-emergent herbicides. Read the directions to see how often applications are needed. AerateAerating your yard is another way of removing thatch and loosen up the soil to allow the grass to breathe. This reduces soil compaction, water runoff, pooling, and lets fertilizers and water gets down deep into the roots. It’s best to aerate in the fall, but if you didn’t, you want to do it as soon as possible. Clean Out The GuttersGet up on the roof and inspect those gutters for leaves and clogs. Even if you did it in the fall, gutters can still catch a lot of debris throughout the winter. Gutters are often a breeding ground for mosquitoes and other lawn pests. Prep Your LawnmowerYour lawnmower is your workhorse that’s going to be keeping your grass beautiful all summer, so you better make sure it’s in top working order. Check the oil, change the air filter and spark plugs, and don’t forget to sharpen your blades. Dull blades can ruin your grass. Dewinterize Your Sprinkler SystemIf you own a sprinkler system, then you (hopefully) winterized it before the first frost. If you didn’t then you probably have much bigger problems on your hands. Locate your system’s power box and check to make sure all the valves are working and sprinkler heads are operating correctly. You also want to make sure no pipes froze and broke over the winter. Prune Trees and ShrubsPrune branches when buds start to appear. This will strong, healthy growth into the fall. Apply fertilizer and mulch around the base of your trees and aerate if necessary. Any plants that were planted last year should be watered regularly. Now that your yard is cleaned up and ready for spring it’s time to start thinking about a lawn care schedule. Get ahead of your friends and neighbors by setting up regular service without all the hassle. Visit our Minneapolis lawn care page and we can help you get your yard ready for spring. The post How to Get Your Yard Ready for Spring in Minneapolis, MN appeared first on Lawnstarter. from https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/minnesota/minneapolis-mn/how-to-get-your-yard-ready-for-spring-in-minneapolis-mn/ You don’t need a green thumb to have a beautiful garden in Chicago, but it helps if you think “green” and chooses plants that are environmentally friendly. Plants that are native to the windy city take less water, money and time to cultivate. They also attract birds, bees and other pollinators to your yard. Here are ten native plants and flowers that will thrive in your Chicago garden: The Butterfly WeedDon’t let its name fool you. This bushy perennial produces bright orange flower clusters overtop stiff, oblong green leaves. The butterfly weed requires full sunshine, but very little water and is extremely drought tolerant. It blooms from May until September and returns to your Chicago garden every year without any effort on your part. New England AstorAgain, the name can be deceiving. This purple-pink flowering plant also return every year without much work. It prefers moist soil but doesn’t need a lot of watering. This native flower is a favorite of honey bees and Monarch butterflies. Plant it in an area that gets some shade. Pale Purple Cone FlowerYou’ll often see this native flower in wooded areas and forests around Chicago. It can grow up to three feet tall in the wild and needs little water or care. Just sprinkle some seeds in a sunny area and let nature do the rest. Dense Blazing StarThis tall, slender perennial produces purple flowers from July until September. It needs full sun and moist soil but can survive in dry conditions. Wild QuinineThis white flowering perennial with pearl-like buds is the perfect compliment to the other colorful flowers in your garden. It thrives in full sunlight and needs just enough water to keep the soil moist. You’ll often see bees and beetles feeding on the pollen in the wild. Elderberry BushesThese low-maintenance shrubs produce a mouthwatering berry that’s great in wine, jams, and pies. This hardy plant tolerates our frigid winters and blooms in late June with a cluster of white flowers. The purple fruit appears in August, ready for harvesting a few weeks later. The shrubs need watering once a week, but only if it doesn’t rain. Wild ColumbineIf your garden is in a well-shaded area, wild columbine will do well. It produces a light pink flower that doesn’t require much maintenance or water. It does well in sandy and clay soils. Garden PhloxGarden phlox is another light purple flower that grows like a weed in Chicago. You’ll often see them in open wooded areas and thickets since they prefer moist soil and sunlight. The flowers will bloom late into October. Dutchman BreechesThis white flowering plant produces blooms that look like upside down breeches, hence its name. It thrives in shady areas, and since it’s native to Illinois, you’ll find it in wooded areas in just about every county in the state. Dutchman Breeches prefer moist areas, but they’re a hardy plant and can resist a moderate frost. Oakleaf HydrangeaOne more shade loving plant to round out your garden includes the oakleaf hydrangea. This native shrub ranges from three to twelve feet tall. The blooms start as green flowers that turn white and then violet. This process begins in June and lasts until mid-winter. The shrub requires moist soil and some pruning after it blooms, but other than bees, it won’t attract pests to your backyard. These are only ten of the native plants and flowers that will thrive in your Chicago garden. By going native, you’ll save yourself a lot of work and help the biodiversity of your home town. Check with a LawnStarter professional about native grasses that will give you a lush lawn with minimal work. Need help with your garden or lawn care? Visit our Chicago lawn care page for more information. The post 10 Native Flowers That Will Thrive in Your Chicago Garden appeared first on Lawnstarter. from https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/chicago-il/native-plants-and-flowers-that-will-thrive-in-your-chicago-garden/ |